Monday, May 28, 2012

Da-Du Forever

I lived on the island of Formosa for ten years, from 1995 to 2005. Throughout that time when I could get out of Taipei, I would trip down the islands rich and exotic East Coast, bodysurfing beach breaks and river mouths in complete and total solitude. I just came across these photos in an old hard drive that were taken in December of 2004, on a clean winter day. Empty perfection with not a soul around for miles. While Formosa has been mined and exploited by various surf magazines since I left, this spot remains completely off the radar, and to this day, barrels away with not a soul around. While it is painful to look at these pictures, I am so happy to know that I had ten years of empty perfection on one of the most magical, and misunderstood islands around.

Sunday, February 5, 2012

Teenagers

Hawaii Prep senior Hunter Ainslie making the elders proud.


Thursday, February 2, 2012

Groundhog Sweetness

A dedicated lifeguard educates a malahini, while Mike Varney lurks in the background with a rather ubiquitous looking yellow water housing.

Wednesday, February 1, 2012

Monday, January 30, 2012

Getting some

All da bruddahs showed up. All da bruddahs were ripping. Wedge was firing beyond belief, so the entire crew gravitated to Boogie nation and tried to compete with the little dickheads on sponges. Thankfully, we all hooked into a few. Here's some shots of Lifeguard Robin, Lee, Patrick, and Alex, who was riding an insane handplane that he had shaped just the night before.



Sunday, January 22, 2012

Upside down backwards takeoff and bored to death cause it's one foot

At least there was a Humpback whale breaching in the background this morning.

Pro Stylin, Retro Gliding!

We're not exactly sure what's going on in this photo, but it appears that Mike Haring is taking the backslide to places never seen before in the history of the sport. Mike wins our "Pro stylin'" move of the week.